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3.22.2011

Cosmetic tips for the interview








When appearing for a job, whether a photo - shoot, runway show or even catalog casting, you may be requested one of the three following cosmetic options:

A) No make-up or clean face.
B) Canvas ready or prepped face.
C) Make up ready.

The request no make-up or clean face its self explanatory, however do not confuse a clean face with a dry nor non-exfoliated face, do not, I repeat do not allow any one to deep-exfoliate your face right before a professional make - up application as you are opening your self to possible severe brake outs, and keep in mind that not all make-up artist keep all cosmetic tools for all skin types, so whether your skin is a bit on the lighter or darker side do your self a favor and bring your own concealer and foundation to the job, trust me they will love you.  and yes this applies to both sexes, guys you know your skin better than anyone so no shaving right before the shoot and if you have a heavy shadow you can certainly appreciate what not having the right shade will do to the photo and or appearance on the runway.

Appearing Canvas ready for a a job refers to showing up with the minimum require make up so that the selected make up artist on site can simply finish the desire look for the job, in this article you will find a complete description of what it means to be “Canvas Ready” Generally it is often only one or two make-up artist will be on site so if you show up canvas ready it means they will be able to work faster and get the job on time.

When an agent, photographer or independent producer says to you come to the gig “Make - up Ready” you should follow such request with a bit more research, what this means is for you to handle your own make up application. You should instantly make sure you have a bit more understanding of the theme, expected amount of drama with in the make-up application, or whether the job requires a natural look. In this case a picture is worth a thousand words so if not sure request a picture of the desired cosmetic look for the job.


Creating a canvas ready look:

The Brow


The eyebrow is an area of thick, delicate hairs above each eye that follows the shape of the lower margin of the lid ridges. Their main function is to protect the eye, but they are also important to human communication and facial expression. It is not uncommon for people to modify their eyebrows by means of hair addition or removal, make-up, or piercings.

The brow is the most expressive feature and the most abused part of the face. It is also the feature that can be changed most drastically without cosmetic surgery.
The grooming of the brow is as important as the shaping of a brow. These are two completely different treatments used to modify the brow, and therefore, change the appearance of  the face.
There is a 75% chance for a brow hair to not grow back after it has been removed from its root, whether  the method used is tweezing, waxing, threading or electrolysis. You must have clear  expectations of the effects of  modifying your eyebrows.

Here are some recommendations as to when and why you should consider brow grooming and /or modifications:

Unibrow: Remove the hair from the center, since having a unibrow can make the face appear a bit harsh. If make-up is applied without removing this hair, make-up will not appear natural but fake and/or synthetic instead.

Unruly and/or excessively thick brow hair: First groom, then consider lightening the brow slightly, about a half-shade  only, to help the face appear softer, and not overwhelmed by the strength of the brow.

Dense under-arch hairy area: Remove by method of tweezing the arch of the brow area, in order to avoid extending the use of pigment on top of the eye lid. [ More information on pigment and use of high/low lights in the color theory chapter.]

Hairy over the end top of the brow area: Keep this area clean as well, in order to separate the brow from the hair line. This will allow for a much stronger effect of the brow when framing the eyes, avoiding unnecessary attention to that area of the face.

Keep in mind that even though modifying your eyebrows can seem fun, it is also one of the biggest problems women and some men face today. Remember that excessive hair removal will eventually cause the brows to not grow back. Remember also that your eyebrows, like the hair on your head, will eventually become pigmentless or grey. Regarding eyebrows:  less is more, in the long run.

You must maintain a clean arch in a make-up application. This will help you create a precise finish, so that your application will appear more natural and professional.

"Remember make-up is about mimicking nature and detailed application in order to achieve visual balance."
                                                                            -DH

What is the difference between grooming and shaping the brow?

Grooming refers to the trimming of the tips of the brow hairs when needed. This process will achieve a natural, clean and effortless finish in most cases, without the need for additional hair removal.

How do I groom the brow?

Begin by applying a heavy moisturizer to the brow. Comb the hairs upwards with a fine brow brush. Proceed with a pair of medium to small scissors and trim around the edge of the brow on a parallel to the brow direction. As long as you keep the scissors away from the inside of the brow and work away from the brow, there is no room for trouble.

Follow the same procedure by reapplying the moisturizer (hand cream is fine for thick unruly brows), combing the hairs in a downward direction.
Once you have finished both sides, comb the brow in a normal growth direction. Then examine the shape. Only after you have groomed the brow should you proceed with your method of choice to modify the brow (s).

How do I modify the brow?
Whether the goal is to add or remove hair, change the color, or change the position of the eyebrow, your first step should be to evaluate the face and determine the desired look.  Many options exist for removing hair in order to achieve a thinner or smaller eyebrow or to "correct" a unibrow,  including waxing, threading and manual or electronic tweezing. In the era of the metrosexual, it has become more common for men as well as women to pluck their eyebrows to appear more youthful and attractive.

The most common method is to use tweezers to thin out and shape the eyebrow. I recommend to first groom the brows as explained in the previous segment, and then proceed to visually evaluate the entire face. If you feel that the area below the arch of the brow is extremely hairy and will extend the color of the shadow, then it is appropriate to wax. Keep in mind that you are only looking to achieve a clean arch and no modification is necessary at this point. Wax is extremely difficult to control and to achieve the same look time after time is almost impossible. In order to avoid excessive waxing, keep your distance from the inner brow area and finish with tweezers.  

There is also the option of threading eyebrows. This option has become very popular and can be fast and more efficient than waxing, when performed by an experienced person.  The process involves a cotton thread that is rolled over hair to pull it out. This method can be painful for some seconds or minutes, due to the sensitivity of the area around the eye. Often, this pain decreases over time, as the individual becomes used to the sensation. After a certain period of time, hair that has been removed will stop growing back.

“Tweezers,  those with a fine edge and slightly pointed tip, work best.”
                                                           Kevyn Aucoin




What are the best ways to fill a brow?


To create a fuller look, eyebrows can be cloned in an eyebrow transplant, as individual strands of the eyebrow are mimicked to create a natural looking eyebrow of the desired shape. Eyebrow brushes and shaders are also used to further define the eyebrow. A fairly recent trend in eyebrow modification is in the form of eyebrow tinting, in which permanent dye, similar to that of hair color, is used on the eyebrows, often to darken them.

What are the best available options if your eyebrows are gone?

An eyebrow lift, a cosmetic surgery to raise the eyebrow, usually in order to create a more feminine or youthful appearance, is a new phenomenon. Eyebrows can be affected during a face lift or an eye lift. More recently, doctors can   inject patients' eyebrows with botox or similar toxins to temporarily raise the eyebrow. But if all you are trying to do is to fill in the brows or simply make them stronger for an evening look,  you must remember that the key to a successful make-up application is to mimic nature as much as possible.  I recommend that you stay away from pencils, liquid fillers or any wax-based products, as they will give a subtle shine and wear away quickly. I have found that nothing on the market gives a more natural finish like powder-based filler. To achieve a more natural brow, apply a color slightly lighter than the current brow shape, and follow where darker filling is  needed, with a color closer to the brow. Set the product with a translucent powder after the brow is filled. This will help you control oil secretion and elongate the wear of the filler. I also recommend that you always start with noninvasive options before considering more permanent procedures, as this eliminates the possibility for error. Yes, it is a bit more work. But in the long run, it gives you more flexibility and finishing options.



A Solid Foundation    



Foundation, Also known as make-up base, foundation derives from two basic tones: rose for cool tones and yellow for warm. Foundation serves the purpose of smoothing the face, while helping you create a clean canvas. Choose the formula that works for you based on how much coverage, protection and moisture you need. If you have clear skin and the tone is even, consider a tinted moisturizer, recommended to protect and give a very light natural coverage.

TIP: Always test the foundation in the best natural light possible.
It should blend in perfectly with the skin tone at your jaw line and match your neck.

Mineral powders

As cosmeceuticals continue to evolve, so does the search for those formulations that have the least impact on the skin, Mineral powders fill such need,  these give you an option for coverage, finish and oil control in one with out clogging the pores or accumulating bacteria. How ever very few people now how to truly use this product, for starters we can not treated as regular face powder, even thought it is very similar, we need to keep in mind that this is a much smaller particle, with stronger coverage, there for it should not be applied with your regular powder brush.

I have discover that when working with mineral powder we must think of dust like painting, be very gentle and suttle when applying it as a little goes a long way, I have also found a particular brush that unlike your normal pony tail powder brush, it deposits a much less amount of powder evenly on the desired area. Labs call it a squarl tale brush. and that is almost what it looks like.

Utilising mineral powder foundations can have several calming benefits on the skin, and yes it also provides you with your SPF, and further more it has shown to have preventative qualities as it sooths to the skin.

How to use Mineral Powders:

After evaluating your skin and deciding that Mineral powders are the best desition for you, I recommend applying an oil free moisturizer of your choice, very little on a clean face, proceed to deposit a very small amount of Mineral powder on a clean area such its own container or a white clean sheet of paper. (some cosmetic companies will sale a special sheet of paper design for Mineral Powder, and yes you can reuse it) proceed to apply the powder on sparingly amounts on the face on a circular motion, very little bits at a time, almost like you are dusting the face, evaluate and reapply.

Conceal your secrets    

Concealer comes from the word The word conceal, used as a verb means to Keep from sight; hide, Concealer as a noun is a flesh or nude cosmetic tool used to cover facial or in many cases body blemishes or what we may interpret as body imperfections. the most commonly used for concealer, is under the eyes. How ever you may used  concealer to cover broken blood vessels, redness and blotches around the face.

Generally a tone one shade lighter than your foundation will be best.  However, in some cases, such as darker skin tones, use the same shade as your foundation.  Many make up artist use several different tools as concealer, from powders, to eye shadows to white pencils, to even foundation it self.

I recommend a talc based concealer that allows you to create layers, what this means is if you go over the desired area you wish to conceal once, and wish to create heavier coverage you will be able to create a second layer. even thought there are other formulations available such as creme concealer, liquid and or powder concealers, I find conpacted talc base concealers to give the most flexible and creative range during application.

How do I apply concealer?

Apply it in light, tapping motions with your fingers and then blend. Concealer is also recommended as an under-brow highlighter, to blend eye color and give the brow definition. I recommend using this cosmetic tool, on top of your foundation to create your canvas, fill in lines and cover imperfections your foundation does not cover to your liking.

Trouble shooters:

After I apply my concealer it became caky and dry looking.

This is the most common issue I come across when listening to my students, there are two probable variables that could cause this problem:  Poor exfoliation habits,  keep in mind that our skin is continuesly exfoliating it self, if  a dead cell build up or there is excessive dry skin on the desired skin area to be concealed this will most likely cause the end result of your concealer to look flaky, unnatural and it will be difficult to blend. the solution for this problem is to engage on a appropriate exfoliation routine. (more info on exfoliation to come)

Common sense plays a big roll on exfoliation and there is a fine line between healthy exfoliation and skin abuse,  you want to exfoliate enough so that you can achieve a smoother applications, but too much or too often exfoliation can create other severe long term issues that can expose the skin to sun damage, cause premature aging.

gentle exfoliation can be done on average about once a week and follow with a good moisturizer of choice.

Reason number two, can be your product of choice may not be appropriate for your skin type, this issue as long as you are not allergic to the product can be easily fixed by diluting the application with an under eye cream of your choice.

TIP: Keep your under eye cream in the fridge,
this will cool down the product and help with under eye puffines.



Want to learn more about the creator of this blog visit www.dhstudios.com

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Curious about the modeling industry? Want to know more about what to do and what not to do when starting a modeling career? From commercial photography to runway Daniel Hernandez will share with you what sixteen years of experience working Boston, Paris and New York has taught him. The modeling industry has changed significantly in recent years and agencies and independent bookers are looking for more than just America’s Next Top Model. This class will explain the process of making the most of a go-see, how to create a comp card and a basic portfolio. Whether you are looking to learn about the modeling industry in Boston, or just curious about the scene, we will include a database with local modeling agencies, photographers, stylists and makeup artist to help you decide if the next step is for you or not.

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